I recently wrote a piece arguing that a car should never be
seen as a utility and that whoever you are you should have a car that excites
and moves you rather than an old runabout. I stand by this viewpoint, however,
I would like to point out an exception to the rule. There is one surprising
place where I would recommend driving nothing except a scrapyard dodger. Italy.
While this stunning country may have given us the likes of
Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati and more recently Pagani,
it turns out that the people of Italy have no concept of how to drive. You
certainly could not reasonably expect to happily drive any of the above in the
country they were conceived.
I recently spent just a short amount of time in Rome, but it
was long enough to experience the madness that is the Italian road system. Our
driver turned up looking like a Mafia hit man in a smartly pressed suit and
aviators, it turned out though that he was more like a getaway driver.
The first rule of Italian roads is that there is no such
thing as a ‘lane’. While white road markings are visible to outsiders, Italians
are incapable of seeing them. They are experts in creating new imaginary lanes
should they need them, simply by placing their car wherever they please.
Straddling lanes is not an issue and people chop and change lanes violently in
heavy traffic, for no apparent reason. Can you imagine how stressful this would
be in a Countach? I saw a man in a DBS Volante driving through the city centre
who looked on the verge of a nervous breakdown.
There is no gap too small and no car too expensive to nudge
out of your way. Drive like a Brit and you would never, ever move. The method
for getting around in Italy is to put your blinkers on, hold down your horn and
elbow your way through. You must be totally ignorant of other road users and
you certainly must not stop. Don’t think you can ever build up any speed either,
as someone will always pull out in front of you no matter the road conditions.
Trying to get the best out of a Zonda here would be like trying to enjoy a
refreshing pint on a roller coaster, you are going to spend more time trying to
preserve what you have rather than enjoying it.
As a result of this lack of road awareness, every car you see
in Italy is sporting a scratch, bump or scrape on each panel. It’s not like you
can rely on people trying to preserve their own paintwork; if it’s a choice
between Antonio scraping his car with yours or being late for dinner, he is
going to be scoffing down ravioli before you can say “bastardo”. Would you want
to park your Ferrari Enzo in a place like this? Or a 250 GTO? Thought not.
Speaking of parking, the Italians have a system whereby it
is totally acceptable for someone to park next to a parallel parked car,
meaning that the person who got there first is stuck until the other chooses to
move. This gives you an idea of the Italian road mentality, it is war, you look
out only for number one. If you think this is an exaggeration then ask the poor
soul in the back of the ambulance we saw that no one would let past, they would
rather the poor chap beat them to the afterlife than beat them in the traffic.
The driving in Italy is genuinely surreal, in fact, the
Mario racing games are very realistic interpretation of two normal Italian
brothers driving home from work. Because the sun is shining and the place is so
ridiculously beautiful everyone is too relaxed to worry about something
superficial like death. Another driver we had spent the journey doing 160kph
across two lanes only slowing down when something was in his way or he had to
answer his mobile. Around 40 minutes into our 45 minute journey he decided it
was probably time to put on his seatbelt.
I can understand why the Italians make supercars; to drive something bland in such a beautiful flamboyant country seems wrong somehow. But believe me, with the exception of a few mountain roads, there is almost nowhere I would want to drive a supercar in Italy. Its streets are too old and narrow, the people too blasé and the highway code too non-existent. It would be like wearing the crown jewels to a football match, you would never feel at ease. The only way to drive there is in a small, cheap car you don’t care about hurting. It seems then, that the country that invented the supercar is incapable of accommodating them.
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